The weather, and our schedules, finally cooperated for the last weekend of May to be our big trip to Gyeongju, the capital of the Silla Dynasty. The Silla Dynasty began just a few decades before the birth of Christ and lasted until the early 10th century AD, spanning 992 years (close enough :P). We originally thought that to get to Gyeongju from Tongyeong we would have to take a bus to Busan, get on the subway and go to the other bus station in Busan, and then get a bus to Gyeongju (all that would have added at least an hour to our trip each way, not to mention a lot of money). Lucky for us, we mentioned our trip to one of our Korean co-teachers and she called the Tongyeong inter-city bus terminal for us to figure out when and if we could get a direct bus. We could and we did; we got up around 6, made it to the bus terminal before 7 and we were in Gyeongju ready to see the sights before 11!
When we got there we found a tourist information booth right outside the bus terminal. Katie convinced me that we had better talk to them before we got started and she was right as usual :D They were extremely helpful and I will not hesitate to enter the next one. They provided us with a map of Gyeongju, the main tourist attractions, and the numbers of the city buses that took you to them. They even mapped out the best route to take to get to as many of the places in one day as we could. Good people, those Koreans. Our first stop was Bulguksa Temple.
An overview of the Bulguksa Temple complex
A pond outside the temple with huge fish that congregated by the bridge to be fed by passersby. You can see the roof of the temple in the background. Just moments after this picture was taken we ran into one of our students. Katie and I were flabbergasted, but he walked right up to us and said "hello" as if there was nothing strange about seeing your teachers miles away from home like that.
A guardian of the temple, perhaps? We're not sure. He looks like he's about to strike the group of school girls, haha.
One section of the front of the temple
Roughly half of the front side of the temple. We enjoyed the architecture; arches, towers, and long staircases are always a plus!
More of the front of the temple - Katie was sticking her tongue out when I took this one
The temple had four sections. The first one we came to was the largest and contained two 3-story pagodas. This one was under renovation and we were able to ascend a set of stairs on the outside of the construction zone to view the upper portion of it.
The other pagoda. The two pagodas constructed beside each other represent differing viewpoints that live in harmony with one another.
A large drum on top of a turtle. We have noticed that Koreans/Buddhists really like turtles and put them under heavy stuff in their artwork. I guess they admire their strength and probably their longevity, also.
A staircase that was steeper than it looked. Luckily, the JMU stairs prepared us well.
The view from one of the towers
The inside of the one building they allowed picture-taking. Bulguksa Temple definitely had the best artwork of any of the temples we have visited so far and we were upset that we couldn't take any pictures. One of the worship rooms was devoted to the god of the people and he was depicted as a person with many hands outstretched (there were hundreds, at least, on the tapestry probably meant to represent one for every human). In another room, there was a painting of Buddha with a ton of holy people surrounding him. They had Buddhist titles, but we don't know anything about the religion, unfortunately. I wish I had taken a class on Buddhism at some point...
Stacking rocks on top of each other for good luck - kind've like wishing wells for us, except more religious I'm sure.
Everybody wanted to touch the golden pig! It was funny to us, at least.
Some masks at the souvenir shop. The red arrow is pointing to the one I purchased for 30,000 won ($25 or so). The smaller ones were 15,000 I think, maybe 20k. Not bad considering they had these masks at all the tourist attractions around town and the prices were jacked up everywhere except here at the temple. They tended not to have the larger sizes and were trying to sell the smaller ones for 30,000. Being the finance major that I am, and coming from a long line of cheapos (Dad...), I was pleased to discover that I had bought my souvenirs from the cheapest place around.
Our next stop was the Seokguram Grottoes, just a 15 minute shuttle bus ride up the mountain from Bulguksa. This is the trail leading to the site. It reminded us of the trails around Chetola.
We didn't know it at the time, but later on we read in the brochure that chipmunks are part of the allure of the grottoes. People would leave crumbs for them and they would run up real quick and grab a handful and then run off again to eat in private. At first we just saw one and we were like whoa! there's a chipmunk. Then we saw another, and another, and then we noticed that people were feeding them... it doesn't sound crazy, but it was. Indeed, it was.
A map of the inner chamber of the grottoes. Pictures were not allowed here either, grrrrrrr
We were able to beat the system by taking a picture of the picture at the souvenir shop! Take that, Buddha. The Seokguram Grottoes were really amazing. This statue was really big; the people on the sides were probably life-size or possibly bigger, to give you an idea.
The view. The light green, field-lookin' areas are the rice paddies. We think that's what practically every person in Gyeongju does, because they were everywhere we went.
The next attraction on our route was the National Museum. By the time we got there it was 2 or 3 and we had eaten virtually nothing all day, so we had lunch at the museum's "rest area."
The National Museum had several mini-museums devoted to different aspects of the Korean culture. The archaeology building interested us the most, so that's where we spent most of our time. This is a wall with ancient drawings all over it. Supposedly there is "a man with exaggerated genitalia" somewhere on this wall. I'll give $5 to anyone who can find him.
Korean belt buckles from centuries past!
Earrings. I wouldn't want to have to put on those big fat ones.
A black and white picture of the burial mounds that we never got to see in person :'( We'll definitely have to make a return trip and stress the burial mounds
An overview of Anapji Pond which was only a few hundred meters away and was next on the list. The pond was man-made and the land around it was built as a pleasure garden for one of the early Silla emperors. The area was apparently widely-known for the exotic plants and animals he raised there. The 1, 3, and 5 refer to the numbers of the buildings that are still standing at Anapji - the rest have been gone for centuries. The Silla palace near these pleasure gardens is also no longer standing. The only things remaining are the ice house and a few scattered foundations.
It's hard to see in this picture, but there was a family of ducklings at the pond. They kept hopping up into the tall grass you see there and jumping back into the water. They looked like they were having a lot of fun.
A view of the pond and building #3 from building #1.
Enjoying the last bit of sunlight
Authentic Korean
Scream masks were for sale at the Anapji souvenir shop. Only 20,000 won!!!
After we left Anapji, we wandered around until we found a park not too far away. There we saw the aforementioned ice house and remains of a great palace. The daylight was pretty much gone, so we directed our efforts to getting dinner and finding a place to stay the night. Finding a reasonably priced hotel was about as much of an adventure as the rest of the day had been. We decided the best course of action would be to get in a cab and tell the driver to take us to the foreigner-friendly section of town (using the map, of course). We ended up getting dropped off in front of the Hilton, which was 250,000 a night (over $200, not cool). It took a good bit of searching, but we were able to commandeer some fried chicken for dinner and we found a more modest hotel for 70,000 won.
We meant to plan out our second day in detail before we went to sleep, but a combination of weariness and Korean back-scratchers we bought at the temple souvenir shop was our undoing.